The Burger Fiend: December 2009

Sans any anecdotal commentary in this upfront section, this is how a burger should strive to taste.

The fiend has probably eaten hundreds – if not thousands – of burgers over the years, many of which touted as gourmet by flashy marketing but actually tasting very elementary by my standards. While I always cross my fingers, and can’t help but to continue to order in spite of my inklings, I still suspect these mediocre sandwiches to be oversized boxed “pub” burgers…or there is simply a lack of TLC masked by a dash of garlic salt and a glob of wholesale mayo.

And this is a point I’ve never really understood.

The burger is an American icon; a staple of nearly every menu from your local roadside diner, neighborhood sports bar or the most high-end establishment anywhere coast-to-coast. So if a restaurant does Americana, or any semblance of this cuisine, then they should invest a little more time and resources into making its burgers undeniably craved staples.

Though I might obviously be slightly bias, I feel I’m not alone in this notion – a view obviously shared by restaurateur David Burke and executive chef Rick Gresh.

Already a critically acclaimed venue by local and national media outlets, and a top 10 selection by Chicago Magazine, it was only a matter of time until I had a chance to get my hands on one of the legendary 40 day dry aged “burkers” from Burke’s Primehouse.

The burger comes topped with an exquisite array of toppings unique to Gresh’s vision of a traditional burger: garlic spinach, crispy shallots, bacon mayonnaise and a toasted potato bun.

Although I’m a purist with my burgers, as all fiendsters know, I decided to dive into this as prepared without any alterations…if anything an attempt to crawl inside the chef’s mind and try to explore his culinary terrain.

The garlic spinach in lieu of lettuce added a creamy and earthy dimension to the flavor and texture, though there were a little too many leaves and it started to overpower the meat. The fried shallots were a wonderful replacement for traditional onions and added that sweet and familiar zest.

In addition, the bacon mayo was an ingenious touch that presents the best combination of both worlds. Although I typically forgo mayo of any kind, the idea of the two together was too much to pass, and luckily wasn’t spread too heavily on the bun. Typically my second favorite part of the puzzle, the potato bun was probably the most easily forgettable item of the mix – not as toasty as I would have liked, still good but more of an afterthought than anything.

Not surprisingly, by far the greatest element of the sandwich was the beef, which includes the trimmings from the dry aged steaks ground within the chuck and sirloin. The dry aged taste is extremely distinguishable from most other burgers you’ll typically taste at a local burger joint, and for those that have never sampled a dry aged piece of beef it is well worth the investment.

As always, I like to sample the meat by itself without no other distractions. This presents the true quality of the meat and allows you to discover every taste and flavor, completely uninfluenced. As expected, you could taste the depth of the dry aging, which gave the beef a velvety, rich and juicy profile with a hint of smokiness that was probably picked up from the grill.

The fiend spoke briefly to the congenial general manager, who likewise offered to give a tour of the dry aging room – a fantastic experience to hold. Very few establishments go the extra mile to serve dry aged steaks, let alone dedicate time and space to producing their own. Likewise, though industry standard for serving dry aged meat is 21 days, Burke’s goes one step farther and only offers their cuts at 28 days or more – again a touch of the aforementioned TLC I believe other restaurants tend to forget.

This burker is only offered on the lunch menu and upon special occasions, but I highly recommend you do yourself a favor and make this a destination (within the James Hotel) to visit soon.